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$14

Three's a charm with authentic tales from Belize, El Salvador, Mexico, Czech Republic, Poland, Iceland, Rhode Island, Ohio, and Arizona. The book also contains a special chapter penned by my good friend John 'Jav Sours' Sweet on his experiences as a National Guardsmen on duty in the wake of Hurricane Katrina in Louisiana...


170 pages/Published in 2006

Tick City Shuffle…

Belize, 2006

  Looking to change things up a bit and embark on a trip with an interesting theme, I began to investigate the various volunteering possibilities offered throughout the world.  I thought I’d try something educational and novel.  I was reading an article in National Geographic Adventure and came across an organization in Belize offering an archaeological project at a Maya site called Cahal Pech (Tick City).  It kind of reminded me of an episode from Fantasy Island.  Fly in and become some sort of pseudo-archaeologist-wannabe-type for a few weeks.  Dig and learn about an ancient culture during the day…Drink beer and learn about a modern culture at night. 

  Of course instead of being paid for my manual ministrations…I would have to do the paying.  But what the hell, the price was right and the tropics are definitely the place to be in January.  The place to moisturize my dry skin and take in an adventure.

  Although I adore history and have spent time researching and teaching about the Maya culture for years, I have to admit I knew next to nothing about the science of excavation aside from what I’ve seen on television documentaries.  I just thought the notion sounded romantic (you know like an Indiana Jones odyssey) and if it really sucked, then I’d go check out some other things in the area. 

  I touched down in Belize City and paid the hefty $50 taxi fare for the short ride into town.  The currency in Belize is strictly tied to the U.S. dollar, so it is always 2-1, thus the cab fare was actually $25 USD.  Belize City has a lot in common geographically with New Orleans.  In other words, it might just disappear altogether someday if a strong enough hurricane decides it’s time for Mother Nature to do some reclaiming.  Building a city below sea level is never a good idea.  But, like other port cities, access sometimes wins out over better judgment.

  Belize is located east of Guatemala and south of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.  It is roughly the size of Massachusetts.  Pretty tiny, but they’ll be quick to inform you that they are indeed larger than El Salvador (by a few thousand square kilometers anyway), and are therefore not the smallest country in Central America. 

  Although small in stature, Belize is by far the most culturally diverse country in Central America.  That’s really saying something when you consider that the population is only 250,000 or less.  The entire population of Belize would just be a mere run-of-the-mill suburb statistic in the greater Phoenix metro area.  Glendale alone has almost as many residents.

The brief cultural history of Belize goes something like this…

  The Maya held down the fort for well over three thousand years in the region before abandoning most of their cities around 900 A.D.  The reasons behind the Maya’s demise is highly debatable.  Some experts point to outside invaders and trade deficits.  Others claim it was due to natural catastrophe and social upheaval.  Ecological factors, such as deforestation and soil leeching, also may have contributed. 

  Those that remained were completely eradicated and removed from Belize by the Spanish and British.  Imagine this…Experts speculate that there were a million or so Maya living in modern-day Belize at one time!  In fact, there are more Maya ruins in the country today than modern dwellings.  Presently there are three distinct Maya groups residing in Belize.  The Yucatec Maya, who fled the Guerra de Castes (Caste War) in the Yucatan Peninsular region of Mexico in the mid 1800s.  The Kekchi Maya, who in 1870, fled enslavement by heinous German coffee growers in Guatemala.  Finally, the Mopan Maya, who fled the Peten region of Guatemala in 1886 in order to escape taxation and oppression.  Of the three, the Kekchi are the most self-reliant and geographically isolated. 

  The Spanish conquistadors arrived in the 1500s and didn’t like what they found.  A daunting reef capable of ripping keels off of their ships and a land largely devoid of precious metals.  Not to mention there really weren’t enough Maya left in Belize at the time to warrant an intense baptizing operation by the Spanish.  They did however utilize the abundant logwood found in the region to produce dye.  But in the end, they decided to take a pass on Belize.  Of course the territory remained officially in Spanish hands. 

  The first permanent settlers were the Brits.  Puritan settlers, shipwrecked castaways, buccaneers, and pirates in no particular order of importance.  The pirates established themselves in present-day Belize City and created havoc on the Spanish galleons as they made their way back to Europe laden with the booty they had pilfered from the Indians.

  The pirates caused so much strife that the Spanish were forced to make treaties with the British (1763 and 1786) allowing them to harvest timber legally in return for keeping check on the wily pirates.  Although Spain may have held title to Belize, they had to have known that the treaties were a sign of the end for them…A death knell.  The culture and ambience became increasingly steeped in the mores and traditions of Great Britain…For better or for worse.  Spanish control slowly became a non-issue.  On September 10th, 1798 a Spanish armada was disposed of near St. George’s Caye and the British unofficially took control.  I say unofficially, because the paperwork that made it official came some 60 years later.  The tape must have been a bit redder back then…(Read more, buy the book)